Kökleri adanın Cenevizliler devrine dek uzanan eski bir Sakızlı aileden gelen Filippo Argenti (Aryentis) (1891-1974) Marsilya'da doğdu. Babası, Aryentios okulu ve hastahanesini yaptıran hayırsever Pandeli Aryenti'idi. Filippo Aryentis Oxford'da edebiyat, Atina'da hukuk öğrenimi görür. Yabancı dil sahibi ve çok çalışkan biri olarak çeşitli Avrupa arşivlerinde araştırmalar yaptıktan sonra çoğu ingilizce yazılmış bir dizi önemli çalışmalar kaleme alır. Konuları, memleketinin halk kültürü, tarihi ve kaynakçalarıdır. Araştırmalarında gezgin metinlerinden yararlanan Aryentis ayrıca Sakız adasıyla ilgili geniş bir gravür ve resim koleksiyonuna sahipti. Çeşitli Yunan sefaretlerinde memurluk görevinde, Londra'daki Yunan sefaretinde ataşe görevinde bulundu, Atina Akademisi muhabir üyeliğine seçildi. Sakız adasının Kambos mevkiinde bulunan Aryenti çiftliği, içindeki korunmaya alınmış konak ve büyük bahçesiyle, bugün hâlâ Sakız adası kültürünün en çarpıcı mimari ve canlı anıtlarından biri olma sıfatını koruyor. Filippo Aryentis 1962 yılında, Sakız adası kültürünün 14. asırdan 20. asra kadar her alanını kaplayan nadir kitap, bilim dergisi, harita ve albümden ibaret 10.000'den fazla cilt, değerli elyazmaları, fotoğraf ve tablo koleksiyonlarını Sakız (Hios) Kütüphanesine bahşetti. Aynı zamanda kütüphane binasının restorasyonunu üstlenirken, Aryenti ailesinin tablolarıyla donattığı Aryentio Müzesini ve Hios Halk Sanatları Müzesini de kurdu.

Önemli ve nadir bir baskı olan ve 500 adet olarak yayınlanan bu kitap kadın ve erkek kıyafetleri üzerine etraflı ve kanıtlara dayanan bir araştırma olup Aryentis'in kendi desenlerini ve gezginlerin yayınladığı kitaplardan 111 tane renkli gravür ve desen içermektedir. Kıyafetlerin malzemesiyle ilgili (keten, yün, pamuk, ipek gibi) baştaki genel gözlemleri mücevherler ve nakışlarla ilgili betimlemeler, soylu ve köylü erkek kıyafetleri izler; kadın kıyafetleri ise adadaki 20 tane köyün herbirinde gözlemlenen çeşitlemelerle sergilenmekte. Ekte, istatistik verilerinden ve Hios kıyafetleri adlarının eş anlamlarından başka, Hios kıyafetlerinden sözeden gezgin kitaplarından alıntılar yayınlanmış oldukları dilde değiştirilmeden aktarılıyor. Tablo, gravür, akuarel ve desenlerin hemen hemen tümü yazarın özel koleksiyonundan kaynaklanıyor. Bu çalışma, yunan kültürü hakkında eşi olmayan tanıklıkları bir araya getiren gezi kitaplarının büyük önemini kanıtlayıp yüzeye çıkarıyor.

Yazan: İoli Vingopoulou

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  Women's costumes from Chios, 1779. From: Abate Domenico Sestin,. Lettere scritte dalla Sicilia e dalla Turchia a diversi suoi amici n Toscania, Firenze, M.DCC.LXXIX [1779].

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  Women's costumes, 1727. From: Aubry de la Motraye, “ Voyages...” , The Hague, M. DCC. XXVII [1727].

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  Women's costumes from Olympoi, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.

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  Costumes from Kourounia, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.

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  Women's working costume from Pityós, Chios, 1822-1866. Illustration published by A. Karavas; drawing by Phrixus Aristefs, in author's collection.

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  Venetian costume, early 18tth century. Itinerant pastry seller. From manuscript in Codice Gradenigo, Biblioteca Museo Correr.

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  Women and men's working costumes from Kalamoti, Chios, 1929. Pen drawing by F. Perilla.

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  Women's costume from Chios, 1815-1821. Original water-colour in author's collection.

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  Costumes from Vessa, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.

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  Costumes from Elata, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.

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  Women's working costumes from Olympoi, 1822-1866. Illustration published by A. Karavas; drawing by Phrixus Aristefs, in author's collection.

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  Women's working costume from Pyrgi, 1822-1866. Illustration published by A. Karavas; drawing by Phrixus Aristefs, in author's collection.

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  Women's working costume from Pyrgi, Chios, 1822-1866. Illustration published by A. Karavas; drawing by Phrixus Aristefs, in author's collection.

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  Costumes from Pyrgi, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.

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  Women's working costume from Kalamoti, Chios, 1822-1866. Illustration published by A. Karavas; drawing by Phrixus Aristefs, in author's collection.

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  Women's costume from Kalamoti, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.

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  Women's working costume from Patrika, 1822-1866. From A. Karavas, “Τοπογραφία της Νήσου Χίου συνταχθείσα μεν υπό Α.Καράβα εκδοθείσα δαπάνη Δ. Φκιαρόγιαννίδου. Εν Χίω, εκ του Τυπογραφείου Κ. Μ. Προκίδου” [Topography of Chios, written by A.Karavas and published at the expenses of D. Fkiarogiannidis...], Chios, 1866.

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  Costumes from Patrika, Chios. Original gouache in author's Collection.

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  Female costumes from Nenita, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.

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  Women's costume from Chios, c.1820. Original water-colour in author's collection.

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  Women's costume, 1815. From: W. Turner, “Journey of a Tour in the Levant”, London, 1820.

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  Women's and children's costumes from Chios, 1805. From: J.L.S. Bartholdy, “Bruchstücke zur nähern Kenntniss des Heutigen Griechenlands”, Berlin, 1805. 

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  Women's costumes from Chios, 1805. From: J.L.S. Bartholdy, “Bruchstücke zur nähern Kenntniss des Heutigen Griechenlands”, Berlin, 1805. 

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  Women's costume from Chios, 1811. From: Baron von Stackelberg, “Trachten und Gebräuche der Neugriechen”, Berlin, 1813. 

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  Women's costumes from Chios, 1793. From: G.A. Olivier, ”Voyage dans l'Empire Ottoman, l'Egypte et la Perse”, Paris, 1801.

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  Women's costumes from Chios, c. 1790. Water-colour by François Marie Roset, Bibliothèque Nationale, (Estampes Od.19), Paris.

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  Women's costume from Chios, c. 1670. Original water-colour in author's collection.

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  Women's costume from Chios, 1768. Engraving by Francis Smith from Lord Baltimore collection, 1768.

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  Women's costume from Chios, 1753. Engraving by Richard Dalton, 1753.

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  Women's costume from Chios, 1738. Drawing by Jean Liotard, Louvre museum, R.F. 1376.

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  Women's costume from Chios, 1738. Drawing by Jean Liotard, Louvre museum, R.F. 1376.

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  Women's costume from Volissos, Chios, 1641. Fresco in the church of Agios Ioannis Prodromos. Reproduction from facsimile in author's collection of original fresco drawn in situ by Arnold Smith.

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  Women's costume from Chios, 1677. From manuscript titled “Journal of the Travels of John Covel”, Additional MSS. 22915, British Museum, London.

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  Women's costume from Chios, 1819. From original water-colour in author's collection.

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  Women's costume from Chios, 1757.  From:  “A Collection of the Dresses of different Nations…”, London, M.DCC.LVII [1757].

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  Women's costume from Chios, 1714. From: [Jean Baptiste Van Mour] “Recueil de cent Estampes representant differentes Nations du Levant…”, Paris, 1714.

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  Women's costume from Chios, c. 1715. From collection: Recueil des Estampes, n. 370, 17 Bibliothèque de l'Arsenal, Paris.

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  Women's head-dress from Chios, 1680 - 1681. From an edition of the Voyages of Cornelis de Bruyn, Delft, 1698.

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  Women's costumes from Chios, 1638. From: Francesco Lupazolo, Landowne manuscript 792, British museum.

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  Women's costumes from Genoa,  15th century. From: Giulio Ferrario, “Le Costume Ancien et Moderne…”, Milan, 1825.

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  Men's working costume at Pyrghi, Chios (1822 - 1866). Illustration published by A.Karavas; drawing by Phrixus Aristefs, in author's collection.

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  Men's costumes at Kambos in Chios, 1776 From: Choiseul-Gouffier, “Voyage Pittoresque de la Grèce”, Paris, M.DCC.LXXXII [1752].

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  Nobleman's costume from Chios (1694 - 1822). Illustration published by A. Karavas; drawing by Phrixus Aristefs, in author's collection.

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  Men's costume from Chios, 1670. From anonymous manuscript belonging to the library of Amiens (1667-1670). Copy in author's collection.

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  Men's, women's and child's costumes from Nenita (Chios), 17th century: Fresco from the church of Panagia Kyra Velidaina. Reproduction from facsimile in author's collection of original fresco drawn in situ by Arnold Smith.

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  Men's Costume, 16th century. Detail from panoramic view of Chios from “Civitates Orbis Terrarum” by Georgius Braun and Franz Hogenberg, Köln, 1573.

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  Genoese costumes of the 16th century. From Giulio Ferrario, “Le Costume Ancien et Moderne”, Milan, 1825.

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  Men's costumes, 15th century. From Codex Berianus Chiensis, Biblioteca Civica Berio, Genoa.

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  Sélla (breast kerchief), Volissos, early 19th century. Original in author's collection.

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  Manikéttia (cuffs) from child's costume, Agio Gala (Chios), early 19th century. Originals in author's collection.

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  Rizá, kerchief from Volissos (Chios), late 18th or early 19th century. Original in author's collection.

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  Boustomániko (short shirt) from silk and cotton, Pyrgi (Chios), 1936. Original in author's collection.

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  Piece of Psarokokkália (knitted cotton fabric) from Pyrgi, Chios (late 19th century). Original in author's collection.

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  Man's pounghi (pouch) from Chios, early 19th century. Original in author's collection.

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  Pounghi (bag or pouch) belonging to affluent woman from Chios (second half of the 18th century). Original in author's collection.

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  Infant's shirt from Chios (early 18th century). Original in author's collection.

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  Details from Pefki, Byzantine textile belonging to Nea Moni monastery in Chios.

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  Stithópano (breast cloth) with silk and cotton from Viki (Chios), second half of the 18th century. Original in author's collection.

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  Infant's shirt from Kourounia (Chios), late 18th century . Original in author's collection.

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  Women's costume from Kardamyla, Chios. Illustration published by A. Karavas; drawing by Phrixus Aristefs, in author's collection.

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  Women's costume from Chios, 1819. Original water-colour in author's collection.

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  Costumes from Nenitouria, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.

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  Parts of female costume from Kambia, Chios: Borkí or Sakkáki (bodice), Podhiá (apron), Skouphaki or Pikái (cap). Kontomántilo (headscarf).

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  Costumes from Viki, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.

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  Costumes from Amades, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.

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  Men's costumes from Kardamyla, Chios. Illustration published by A. Karavas; drawing by Phrixus Aristefs, in author's collection.

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  Costumes from Mesta, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.

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  Clothes from Patrika, Chios.Fig. 63. Boustomániko(short shirt), Dress, Seiméniko jacket.

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  Costumes from Kallimasia, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.

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  Women's costumes from Chios, 1796. From: Grasset Saint-Sauveur,”Encyclopédie des Voyages…” Paris, 1796.

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  Women's costumes from Chios, 1717. From: Pitton de Tournefort, “Relation d'un Voyage du Levant fait par ordre du roy”, Paris, M.DCC.XVII [1717].

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  Women's costume from Chios, 1698. From: Georges de la Chapelle, “Recueil de divers Portraits des Principales Dames de la Porte du Grand Turc.”, Paris, 1648.

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  Women's costume from Chios,, c.1687. From collection of the British Museum of London.

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  Women's costume from Chios, c. 1687. From “Collection d'Habits par H. Bonnart et d'autres”, Paris, c. 1687. 

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  Noblewoman's costume from Chios, 17th century. From collection belonging to Bibliothéque National de Paris: Od. 29, Grèce Moderne, Costumes et Moeurs. Empire d'Orient. 

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  Married women's costume, 1568. From: Nicolas de Nicolay, “Les Quatre Premiers Livres des Navigations…”, Lyon, 1568.

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  Unmarried women's costume from Chios, 1568. From Nicolas de Nicolay, “Les Quatre Premiers Livres des Navigations”… Lyon, 1568.

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  Men's jackets from the northern villages of Chios: Kontó, Rasozipouno, Kanavitsa Phrachti. Cap (Pikai).

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  Men and women's traditional costumes, Pyrgi, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.

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  Parts of men's costume from Chios: Podia (long shirt), belt.

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  Men's working costume from Mestá, Chios, 1822 – 1866. Illustration published by A. Karavas; drawing by Phrixus Aristefs, in author's collection.

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  Men's costumes from Chios, 1796.

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  Parts of men's costume from Chios: Seimeniko (short jacket), Fez, Cap, Tsardhínia (gaiters).

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  Men's and women's costumes in Chios, 1788. From  Pierre S. Maréchal, “Costumes civils actuels de tous les Peuples...”, Paris, 1788].

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  Woven cotton bag from Kallimasia, Chios. Original in author's collection.

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  Manikettia (cuffs) from silk and cotton, Pyrgi (Chios), late 19th century. Original in author's collection.

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  Brostomántilo or stithopano (breast cloth), from Pyrgi (Chios), c.1850. Original in author's collection.

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  ΠΕΥΚΙ (Pefki): Byzantine textile belonging to Nea Moni monastery in Chios.

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  Map of Chios.

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  View of the Kampos in the early 19th century. Watercolour by Sir William Gell, in author's collection.

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  Title page. Ancient coin from Chios.

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  Noblemen's traditional costume from Chios, previous to 1822. Original gouache in author's collection.

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  Women's costumes from Chios, Samos and Lesbos, 1812. From: A.L. Castellan, ”Moeurs, Usages, Costumes des Othomans”, Paris, 1812.

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  Women's costumes from Chios, 1782. From: Choiseul-Gouffier “Voyage Pittoresque de la Grèce”, Paris, M.DCC.LXXXII [1782]

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  Costumes from Kambia, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.

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  Women's costumes from Chios and Myconos, 1828. From: G.B. Depping,”Griechenland und die Griechen”, Leipzig, 1828.

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  Women's costumes from Chios and Kimolos, 1812. From A.L. Castellan, ”Moeurs, Usages, Costumes des Othomans”, Paris, 1812.

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  Women's costume from Chios,, 1757. From: “A Collection of the Dresses of different Nations…”, London, M.DCC.LVII [1757].

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  Italian noblewoman's  costume,  1590. From: Cesare Vecellio, “Degli Habiti Antichi et Moderni di Diverse Parti del Mondo…”, Venice, M.D.XG [1590]. 

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  Detail from panorama of town of Chios. From an edition of the Voyages of Cornelis de Bruyn, Delft, 1698.

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  Women's working costumes from Pyrgi, Chios, 1929. Pen drawing by F. Perilla.

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  Parts of women's headwear from Mesta, Chios. Stroungí (rigid cap), Skoúphia (cap), Tsambéri (headscarf), Babazína (headscarf). Karkovelónes (hairpins).

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  Costumes from Lithi, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.

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  Costumes from Agios Georgios Sykousis, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.

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  Costumes from Volissos, Chios. Original gouache in author's collection.